The sheer chance of geography and the dedication of a winemaking family: unexpected on Long Island, a sumptuous cabernet sauvignon.
Long Island: Paumanok Tasting
The wines of Paumanok Vineyards are often considered among the best produced on Long Island. Several years ago that might not have been a terribly impressive statement. Today, because of the high quality we see in the area, it is. The success of Paumanok is due to the dedication of the people involved—the Massoud family and their associates—and also in no small part to sheer chance of geography.
Charles and Ursula Massoud had a vision of becoming winemakers. Mr. Massoud worked for IBM in Connecticut, and they thought that perhaps after he retired they might buy a vineyard in Germany, where some members of Mrs. Massoud’s family are vintners. By chance, in 1980, through a newspaper ad, they started to consider the North Fork, then in the very early stages of becoming a serious winemaking region. In 1983 they bought some farmland in Aquebogue. This defied conventional wisdom at the time. The existing vineyards were clustered in the Cutchogue area because it was thought that Cutchogue had a slightly milder microclimate and a longer growing season than the rest of the North Fork. The Massouds bought in Aquebogue because of price. It was simply what they could afford. But it turned out to be very lucky because, unknown to them at the time, the climatic conditions and growing season there were even more favorable for certain grapes.
Whereas merlot is the dominant red grape of East End vineyards, Paumanok also displays great strength in cabernet sauvignon. It requires as much as two weeks more to properly mature and accounts for only a small part of the production of other Long Island vineyards. This difference is reflected in the wines they produce. I recently sampled a number of Paumanok wines at the winery, and bought several of their more ambitious reds to try at home with food. I was particularly curious about their 2000 Grand Vintage cabernet sauvignon.
Paumanok produces a Grand Vintage from certain vines only in certain years, so this wine would, I figured, demonstrate how good a cab they could make, and if the price of $39 is justified. I found the first sips a bit austere, but the bouquet gradually opened in the glass to reveal some exciting scents of ripe black fruits with touches of licorice and cassis. The taste also became more expressive after a few minutes, unfolding with concentrated current-like flavors and a long finish. It was very good indeed —captivating, well proportioned, with a refined taste and a nice tannin backbone.
This is a sumptuous cabernet sauvignon to pour if you are planning a major league dinner during the holidays. I’d also consider cellaring a bottle or two for drinking over the next few years. I don’t think it is quite ready to challenge some of the classic California cabs, top-of-the-line vintages from Caymus or Diamond Creek or Phelps Insignia, for example, but it is not that far behind. Nor is it as expensive. Paumanok is proving definitively that Long Island can produce a high quality cabernet sauvignon.
Paumanok’s entry in the increasingly crowded field of premium Long Island merlots is their 2000 Grand Vintage, priced at $36. I found it elegant and attractive, with a deep ruby color, cherry and raspberry scents, medium tannin and a nice acidic balance. I have not tasted it side by side with other local premium merlots, but I think it would stand up well to the competition.
In a sign of maturity and confidence, several Long Island wineries are now producing Bordeaux style blends as well the expected varietals. The 2000 Assemblage, which sells for $36, is Paumanok’s current candidate. It is composed of 45 percent each of cabernet sauvignon and merlot and 10 percent cabernet franc, and is similar in style to the Meritage blends of other wineries in the region. I found it classically correct with appealing aromatics, a toasty oak background, and integrated black fruit flavors with mineral notes. Overall, it is a sturdy and satisfying wine that pairs well with winter menus.
Mr. Massoud, in the French vigneron tradition, believes in “growing the wine,” with emphasis on the intense care and development of the vines in the fields. He then uses the same team of people for the winemaking process. It’s a sound tradition that has traveled well from the countryside of France to the fields of eastern Long Island. His philosophy is solidly borne out, I believe, by these distinctive red wines.
